Tuesday, July 1, 2008

27th OF JUNE, ASBURY PARK (MARIE) (GUEST POST BY ADAM C.): Asbury Park fixture Marie Castello, better known as fortune teller Madam Marie, died on Friday at the age of 93, just a week shy of another Independence Day. Bruce Springsteen immortalized Madame Marie in his evocative song “4th of July, Asbury Park (Sandy),” from his 1973 album The Wild, the Innocent, and the E Street Shuffle.

In live performances to this day, Bruce often dedicates the song to folks who still live in Asbury Park and its neighboring shore towns, an area Bruce called home for many of his formative years. Over the wistful strains of the late Danny Federici’s accordion, Bruce paints a picture of a summer town slowly dying amid the evening fireworks and the tourist trade. He crafts rich images of the characters who inhabit the boardwalk and its Pinball Way, cruising the Circuit and, in some cases, dreaming of something more. As the narrator comes to the realization that he’s grown “tired of hanging in them dusty arcades” and “chasing the factory girls underneath the boardwalk,” Madam Marie serves as something of a touchstone for his impending departure:
Didja hear the cops finally busted Madam Marie for tellin’ fortunes better than they do?

For me this boardwalk life’s through, baby. You oughta quit this scene too.
I used the couplet above as a yearbook quote twenty years ago when I graduated from high school. At the time, I took it in a very literal sense. I thought it captured perfectly how much I wanted to get away from my hometown, to start down a new path somewhere that wouldn’t be defined by my place in the panoply of high school stereotypes, or by who my parents or my grandparents were. Although I couldn’t predict my future, I thought I had a pretty good idea of where I was going and what I wanted. And I did. Until I didn’t anymore. Twenty years burning down the road, I’ve had occasion recently to think about that couplet again. I see a lot more depth, resonance, and sad truth in those words, on both a personal and a global level. But I also can find comfort in the implied hopefulness of the lyric.

Although Marie Castello was never hauled in by the cops outside of song, you may know that Asbury Park suffered a painful decline in the decades after the release of The Wild, the Innocent, and the E Street Shuffle. The Palace Amusements complex fell into grave disrepair and was demolished (although its iconic mural of Tillie the clown was partially preserved). Like many of the local businesses, Madam Marie’s boardwalk shack was eventually shuttered.

But then, almost exactly four years ago, amid a major (and still ongoing) redevelopment effort in Asbury Park, Madam Marie reopened her boardwalk shop and began offering readings. Her family members, including a great-granddaughter, continue to work the small booth to this day. And the beach at Asbury Park is again becoming known as a jewel of the Jersey shore.

Farewell, Madam Marie – for what you meant to your family and Asbury Park, for the creative spark you inspired in Bruce Springsteen, and for the inspiration his image of you gave to me and I’m sure many others, you will be missed. I hope the Castello family will be able to share and enjoy fond memories of Marie and be at peace on this Fourth of July.

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