"THIS REMINDS ME OF THIS ONE TIME WHEN I WENT TO A TECHNO PARTY IN THE WOODS, AND I TOOK SO MANY DRUGS THAT I TRIED TO EAT A PINE TREE": "New Nordic" may have supplanted Spanish molecular gastronomy as the world's hippest food trend, and the Washington Post has visited Copenhagen's Noma restaurant to explore the purported joys of such dishes as "pickled quail eggs smoked over hay;" "carrots that had been cooked at low temperature for hours, served over black hay ash and sorrel sauce;" "frozen cod liver that was sliced thin, which we were told 'has to be eaten immediately because it’s melting;" "langoustines, served on a rock, which you dragged through seaweed powder and oyster sauce;" "caramelized cauliflower covered with evergreen branches and served with whey, pine oil, and horseradish crème fraiche;" and "raw Danish squid served with unripe sloe berries and pickled Douglas fir."
As Eric J commented in April 2010 when Noma was named Best Restaurant in the World by Restaurant magazine, "It's amazing how many of the dishes on Noma's menu sound like what you'd make in the middle of February when the pantry is empty and you're just trying to stave off starvation until the winter is over."
Every time I read one of these stories, I can't help thinking that we're just one or two steps away from living through the fable of The Emperor's New Food.
ReplyDeleteI've eaten there. I'm the boringest eater ever (I almost always choose the chicken dish) and so not a foodie. And yet: it really was a religious experience. I always use the analogy that every other meal is like a tiny mono speaker and suddenly I heard surround sound. Other top-tier restaurants have been massive disappointments in comparison.
ReplyDeleteOne of the very few reasonably priced Southern/Soul Food places in NyC got replaced (with the same name and signage) with overly arty New Nordic. I am amused because it still says "Authenetic Southern and Cajun Cookin'" on the awning.
ReplyDeleteI just don't want my food dragged through anything, even if it's more food.
ReplyDeleteOh, I'll drag a pita through a bowl of hummus without a second thought.
ReplyDeleteIf you're talking about Acme, I hadn't experienced it pre-new Nordic, but post-new Nordic, the chicken & egg entree is simple and delicious. Tender and juicy roast chicken, roast potatoes, and all with a fried egg on top. It's comfort in a bowl.
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