Monday, October 20, 2003

THE LEFT HAND VS. THE RIGHT HAND: Mark Bittman ("The Minimalist"), in the NYT's Dining & Wine section, on October 8:
That we don't celebrate the arrival of native bay scallops with the pealing of church bells and the setting off of fireworks — as the first asparagus is heralded in Germany, or the first cloudberry near the Arctic Circle — says more about our history than about these scallops.

Native bay scallops are a precious resource, carefully managed (and more plentiful than 10 years ago). They are among the most delicious of foods, difficult to find, and always expensive. If you are not paying at least $15 a pound, you are dealing with either a philanthropist or a crook.

But, umm, see Jonathan Reynolds, writing the Food column for the NYT Magazine, on October 19:
As for bay scallops, just turn the other way and buy frozen shrimp if you have no other choice. For reasons I've never been able to fathom, bay scallops -- the little ones -- were in vogue for a while during the 70's and were actually more expensive. Bays are difficult to cook without them stiffening like little corks and turning chewy. They have neither the melting texture nor the sweetness of sea scallops.

For what it's worth, I made Bittman's recipe for Roasted Bay Scallops With Brown Butter and Shallots about a week ago -- using sea scallops because that's all that was available -- and I have to say, wow. If you like scallops, it's a simple, quick, excellent preparation.

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