Often, after ambitious restaurant meals, I leave feeling that too many hands mucked around with my food, and that despite all the fussing, the result wasn't even remotely satisfying. The cooking at Le Bec-Fin was of a different order; you didn't notice how much work had gone into it until you tasted it.
Saturday, March 3, 2012
FOR YOUR $22 YOU GET FIVE COURSES—APPETIZER, SEAFOOD, ENTREE, CHEESE, DESSERT—AND COFFEE: Tonight, Philadelphia one-time fine dining institution Le Bec-Fin serves its last meals after forty-plus years in business under Chef Georges Perrier, and will reopen under new ownership (Nicolas Fanucci, general manager of French Laundry) in a few months. Here's Philadelphia Magazine's original September 1974 review, which is a treat to read, and Pete Wells on the meal he had anticipated for twenty years:
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