IT'S VERY ALLY MCBEAL: There are
places that do far better than I could ever do at lampooning the ridiculous of
NYT restaurant critic Frank Bruni's reviews, and given how rarely I eat at the sort of places Bruni reviews, I'm not in much of a position to ridicule him. But today's
Critic's Notebook piece, an Andy Rooney-esque rant that could be titled "What's The Deal With Restaurant Bathrooms?," perhaps demonstrates that the
Times has a few too many column inches in the Dining section to fill.
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