Grimes performs both sociology and food criticism with great skill in the piece. Here's the setup:
Either way, HoJo's future now seemed shaky to me. I had walked past the place hundreds of times in the last quarter-century without ever eating there. True, I was never entirely convinced that the restaurant actually existed. It was more like a hallucination than a fact, but not crossing the threshold was a little like living in Washington and never visiting the Jefferson Memorial. For a food critic, it seemed like gross dereliction of duty. I decided to take action. I would eat at HoJo's.
How did the clam strips hold up? What does legendary chef Jacques Pépin have to do with it? You can read the article here (registration required).
Who needs faux nostalgia when the real stuff's still out there?
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