What a worthwhile review does is place the item being reviewed in context -- whether it's comparing Fieri's place to other restaurants-for-the-masses or a movie like Transformers or Battleship to big dumb action movies which delivered. Until a reviewer makes clear what the expectations are for the genre, and establishes markers which demonstrate an appreciation of when it's done right, then merely saying "this was bad" over and over again is unhelpful. Compare it to what Time Out NY wrote yesterday, which while almost as dismissive took more effort to explain why the restaurant fails:
You’d expect Guy’s American Kitchen and Bar, for one, to be as wild as a three-ring circus—given its Times Square locale and namesake’s Food Network persona. But even in that context, Guy Fieri fumbles his New York debut. TV’s most over-the-top food personality—known for high-fiving his way across the country and scarfing down junk food while dressed like a rodeo clown—has toned his shtick down at his first East Coast restaurant....Heck, even this Yelp review from "Amy P" is more helpful than Pete Wells', because it gets into the value provided for families and the quality of the kids' meals, which, given that it's Times Square is more relevant to the likely audience for the restaurant than Wells' ability to turn a phrase. Or maybe I'm just in a forgiving mood today.
The Heartland Brewery chain—his managing partner here—is actually in charge of day-to-day operations. It’s kept the onscreen mania from getting out of hand at the restaurant. While that means neither the food nor the space are terribly crass or offensive, they aren’t very exuberant or fun, either.... Where are all the teetering towers of sticky sweets? The “holy moly stromboli” moments? The triple-decker grease bombs swooned over in all those onscreen diners and dives? Fieri’s own restaurant wouldn’t inspire even a single catchphrase.
added: Choire Sicha, The Awl:
This is a case in which this snobbery is expressed at the bluntest, most obvious manifestation of Garbage USA incursion into Manhattan. This is the easiest stone to throw.
And it's celebrated because that stone is coming from a traditionally stodgy institution that doesn't often see fit to throw stones. Plenty of blogs have called this terrible place terrible, at great length and with much glee. But come from the allegedly esteemed pulpit of the Times restaurant reviews, it becomes "official."